California dreaming? 10 spots to visit in the Golden State that aren’t LA or San Francisco
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California is so big that it could almost be a separate country from the rest of America. Indeed it once was, albeit briefly (for 25 days in 1846) and the state flag still says “California Republic.” While L.A., Hollywood and San Francisco are probably the most iconic places in the state, there are a lot more behind the scenes, as it were.
A vast western state, California encompasses everything from wildly beautiful beaches and majestic Sierra Nevada mountain peaks to towering redwood forests and sprawling desert vistas. With the geography of this calibre, it’s no surprise there are plenty of hidden gem small towns in the mix that draw visitors on account of their history and settings. From hamlets with a Gold Rush past to charming seaside enclaves, here are the cool California towns you want to include on your next Cal-itinerary.
1. Pismo Beach
Pismo Beach, a legendary coastal resort area, is the epitome of California cool and a microcosm of the Golden State with expansive beaches and wineries and even a monarch butterfly preserve. Though the moniker is no longer in use, Pismo Beach used to be called the Clam Capital of the World. One of the most fun things to do here is to rent an ATV to cruise the sand dunes next to the wide Pacific Ocean. Also in San Luis Obispo county but farther north, you’ll find the famous Hearst Castle at San Simeon.
2. Malibu/Point Dume
Malibu is essentially a narrow coastal strip some 30 miles west of downtown Los Angeles. But since 1991 it has existed as an independent city and its reputation as a location of sprawling oceanfront houses and magnet for surfers precedes it. Angelenos tend to be best acquainted with those parts of the “Bu,” as it’s called, that lie on either side of the Pacific Coast Highway as it cuts across all of Malibu’s 21 miles. That’s because the kind of real estate that packs in celebrities like Beyoncé and Chris Martin tends to be close to the shore and tough to access.
There are exceptions though, such as Malibu Lagoon State Beach and Zuma Beach. In between, there’s a promontory called Point Dume that contains the priciest properties in Malibu. From atop the bluff stars like Barbra Streisand can enjoy some of California’s most spectacular ocean views, but anyone can visit the beaches below: Both the crescent-shaped Dume Cove beach and Big Dume beach are actually part of the California state beach system.
3. Mammoth Lakes
Say “Mammoth Lakes” to almost any Californian and the first image that comes to mind is Mammoth Mountain, an iconic ski area and the highest one in the state. The rugged Sierra Nevada mountains are California’s proximate answer to Colorado’s Rocky Mountains and the main appeal is all-season recreation. Mammoth Lakes itself has a charming central village in addition to the lakes, forests, mountain peaks and other natural draws.
Devil’s Postpile National Monument is located west of Mammoth Mountain. The monument itself is an unusual formation of basalt rock columns but the area also includes Rainbow Falls, a 101-foot tall waterfall on the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River. Mammoth Lakes is also a good base from which to set out for Yosemite National Park. The local airport is called Mammoth Yosemite Airport (MMH) and typically has year-round non-stop flights from L.A. and seasonal flights from other California cities.
This oceanside city in San Diego County is a perennial family favourite. For starters, there are beautiful beaches like South Carlsbad State Beach and Tamarack Surf Beach, behind which is the popular Carlsbad Sea Wall Walk. Carlsbad is also the home of the Legoland California theme park. There’s also the seasonal Flower Fields celebration at Carlsbad Ranch, which transforms 60 acres of undulating North San Diego County hills into sprawling flights of floral fantasy every spring. The flowers inspire lavish displays such as Flower Field’s classic American flag.
Murphys, in the Sierra Nevada foothills of Calaveras County, was one of California’s richest “diggins” during the California Gold Rush of the 1840s — hence its former name of Murphys New Diggings. The keyword today isn’t gold though, it’s quaint, as you’ll see when strolling down the town’s idyllic little Main Street with its clapboard buildings and white picket fences. But where prospectors and gamblers once mingled in between gold-digging expeditions (fit in a visit to the Old Timers Museum if you can), now winemakers hold sway and there are upwards of two dozen wine-tasting rooms along Main Street and several vineyards in the vicinity.
As the so-called Queen of the Sierra, Murphys has a small population of around 2,213 but lots of homestyle restaurants and cosy country inns. One such is the Murphys Hotel, whose illustrious guests have included Ulysses S. Grant and Mark Twain.
6. Tahoe City
With an elevation of 6,250 feet, Tahoe City ranks high on California’s snow list. It lies on the western shore of Lake Tahoe, the largest alpine lake in North America. With plenty of sunny summer days — there is what’s called a continental Mediterranean climate here — this is a magnet for visitors all year round. The Granlibakken ski and sledding area is the area’s oldest ski resort and popular with families with on-site rentals.
First-time visitors should consider the classic seven-hour Lake Tahoe Circle Bus Tour, still the ideal way to delve into Lake Tahoe and its rustic history that includes Emerald Bay State Park and Logan Shoals Vista Point. During the summer, the historic lakefront Queen Anne-style Hellman-Ehrman Mansion, built in 1903, is worth a tour for a glimpse into the lifestyle of the Lake Tahoe wealthy set of yore. The estate is located within Sugar Point State Park, where the world’s tallest pine trees grow.
7. Half Moon Bay
Its name may only spell half a moon but this frequently foggy place on the Pacific Coast south of San Francisco is famous as a full-on surfing spot. Just north of Half Moon Bay State Beach is the bluff-backed Mavericks Beach, a renowned site for big wave surfing (particularly in winter) at the tip of Pillar Point. For some sylvan splendour away from the ocean, check out the Purisima Creek Redwoods Preserve.
Ojai may be less than 90 miles from downtown Los Angeles but in many respects, it’s a world away. This low-key town, nestled in a setting of rolling hills and oak trees, stood in for the mythical paradise of the 1937 film classic Lost Horizon. Today it’s the ideal destination for those who appreciate an absence of chain stores, fast food and sprawling shopping malls.
Spiritually focused and scenically seductive, this rustic hamlet is where visitors wait for the “pink moment” as the sun sets in the east over the Topa Topa mountains (they really do, and the peaks really do glow pink). Ojai is populated by artisans, actors, architects and those on the cusp of retiring and a number of meditation and music festivals now are staged here.
Avalon, a small resort port on the island of Santa Catalina, is the southernmost city in Los Angeles County. Catalina is one of the eight Channel Islands of California, accessible via ferry ride from Long Beach (about one hour), Dana Point or San Pedro. Much of Avalon developed thanks to the largesse of chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr. in the 1920s and the iconic island has a star-studded history. The 1929 Catalina Casino remains a landmark perched at the water’s edge and Lover’s Cove Marine Reserve lures snorkellers year-round. Catalina’s classic glass-bottom boat tours are a touristy but time-honoured tradition, popular with families.
Much of Avalon clings to the waterfront facing scenic Avalon Bay. A small group tour, such as Catalina Island’s Avalon Scenic Tours operated by the Catalina Island Company, serves as a good introduction to this unique SoCal town.
10. Hermosa Beach
You probably already know about Santa Monica as well as the famously zany Venice Beach, which is adjacent to it. But the Los Angeles County coastline is pretty vast, meaning there are many other great beachfront areas, too, and one of the best insider spots is compact Hermosa Beach. At just 1.4 square miles, it’s dwarfed by virtually all its neighbours — Venice Beach is north, Palos Verdes to the south and Los Angeles due east — but therein lies the charm.
Life here revolves around the wide beach, especially popular with surfers and volleyball players. With a pier jutting into the Pacific and a sunny promenade called the Strand that continues to Santa Monica, Hermosa Beach is a popular film location and the epitome of laidback Southern California beach life.
From the deserts to the ocean by way of rugged mountains and varied scenic landscapes, California is a world in one state. While urban showstoppers like San Francisco and Los Angeles are rightly a part of many California itineraries (and home to its biggest airports), it’s in the smaller towns where that mellow Golden State flavour truly shines.
Featured photo by Ed Freeman/Getty Images
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